Your outerwear is your first point of defence for keeping the weather out. The quality of your outerwear is often a key point in your enjoyment of a bad weather day on the hill. This guide is aimed at providing you with the knowledge and resources to choose the right gear for your mountain adventures
Waterproof and Breathability Ratings
The Waterproof and Breathability ratings of your outerwear are a good place to start when it comes to picking out the perfect Ski Jacket or Pants. In general, higher ratings will perform better in adverse conditions, although these ratings aren’t the only important factor.
Waterproofing
Waterproof Ratings are measured in mm’s of height using a water column. They range from 2,000mm (2k) up to 40,000mm (40k), with most options sitting at 10k, 15k, or 20k. Gore-Tex membranes are accepted to be rated at 28k waterproofing and are the gold standard for staying dry.
| Rating (mm) | Description | Suitable Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| 0 - 10,000 | Low waterproofing ratings, rain and snow proof in some conditions | Sunny, Cold Snow |
| 10,000 - 15,000 | Medium waterproofing ratings, rain and snow proof for most conditions | Sunny, Cold Snow, Light Rain |
| 15,000 - 20,000 | High waterproofing ratings, rain and snow proof for all but the worst conditions | Sunny, Cold or Wet Snow, Medium Rain |
| 20,000+ | Highest waterproofing ratings, rain and snow proof for all conditions | All conditions |
If you go out when its raining and expect to stay dry, you don’t want to be looking at anything less than 20k Waterproofing. Lower-ratings work well for the occasional shower or snowing, but will wet out quicker than their higher rated cousins.
Breathability
Breathability is a measure of how well a water vapour disperses from inside the outerwear. It is measured in grams per 24hr period, and ranges from 2,000g (2k) up to above 30,000g (30k). Breathability becomes more important the more active you are when wearing it.
| Rating (g) | Description | Suitable Users |
|---|---|---|
| 0 - 10,000 | Low breathability ratings | Resort |
| 10,000 - 15,000 | Medium breathability ratings | Resort |
| 15,000 - 20,000 | High breathability ratings | Backcountry, Resort |
| 20,000+ | Highest breathability ratings | Backcountry, Resort |
If you regularly chuck your skis on your shoulder and hike for a better run, a higher breathability rating is essential. Anything 10k or less you will find that you sweat more often while skiing and the moisture inside your layers will be more uncomfortable.
Breathability is only as good as the layers you wear. If you are stacking cotton t-shirts and hoodies under your jacket, breathability performance will be severely compromised. Layering well is key! Breathable and moisture wicking base layers made with wool or bamboo will make all the difference.
Waterproofing & Breathability is only the start. Most brands are likely to add higher quality features in a higher quality garment. Hence you will find better seam sealing, DWR finishes and waterproof zippers on pieces with higher waterproof ratings. These smaller details play a huge role in comfort & performance.
Seam Sealing
Like most clothing, Ski Jackets & Pants are held together by panels of fabric sewn together into shape. The problem with sewing Waterproof gear is that it leaves a ton of small holes that water can get into. This is why in order to be waterproof, its seams need to be sealed.
Different quality pieces will have their seams sealed differently. High end pieces will be 'Fully Seam Sealed' and have each external seam taped and sealed in a way that keeps water out. ‘Critically Seam Sealed’ pieces are often lower end and only feature seam sealing on the more important areas of the jacket/pants, often around the shoulders and hood or butt.
Durable Water Repellant (DWR)
The DWR layer is a hydrophobic layer added to the external face of your outerwear. It is designed to aid in the waterproofing process by actively repelling water droplets and ‘beading’ them off. There are many different types that all achieve essentially the same thing.
It is called ‘Durable’ because the Jacket can be washed many times before washing away the DWR. Often times once the fabric starts absorbing water rather than repelling, the DWR may be clogged with dirt or oil and needs to be restored. This can be done very simply, cleaning with a tech wash and then tumble drying on low heat for roughly 20 minutes. If that fails, you may need to re-apply an aftermarket DWR product. We stock a range of products from Nikwax to help maintain your outerwear. Check out the Spray-On DWR or Wash-In DWR Waterproofers.
Insulation
Ski Jackets & Pants come with widely differing amounts of Insulation. From shells, with no insulation, all the way to heavily insulated options that make the wearer look like the Michelin Man. Deciding on how much Insulation you need depends on a couple factors: where you’ll be skiing, how hot or cold you normally run, and what other insulating layers you already own and intend to use.
Shell Ski Jackets & Pants
Shells are designed and produced without any Insulation. This enables users to customise their layering to suit the daily condition. Experienced Backcountry skiers utilise this strategy fairly exclusively. The main benefit of using a Layered approach with a shell is versatility. If it is sunny and cold you can pull the outer layer off and be more comfortable. This is especially important in the backcountry when it’s quite easy to run up a sweat when going uphill then have to deal with all sorts of conditions up top.
Layering is a whole topic in itself. Most people aim for a 1-2-3 system. Base Layer, Mid Layer, Outer Layer (Shell Jacket).
The aim of a Base Layer is to Wick sweat away from your body, Merino Wool is the gold standard for wicking with the added benefit of providing warmth. Mid Layers are the basis of your warmth, differing amount of insulation and material can be modified to suit the conditions. Down is perfect if you are somewhere that is cold and dry, less so if you ski at Buller.
Of course, the Outer Layer is the Shell Jacket that is there to block the Wind and Water from your body. For it to function perfectly, all three layers need to be adequately breathable. Forgo cotton at all costs, technical fabrics such as polyester, nylon and wool will outperform cotton in all areas.
Insulated Ski Jackets & Pants
Most outerwear comes with some form of insulating material built into the Jacket. Whether it be Down or some form of Synthetic, the end goal is the same, trap heat close to your body and prevent the wearer from freezing. There are a number of big names to look out for, Primaloft, Thermogreen and Thinsulate are all options you’ll find across our range of ski jackets.
With insulation built in, you have the flexibility to forgo the Mid Layer in your Layering, especially in Australia. But the downside of that is that if the conditions are too warm for how much insulation your Jacket has then you can’t ditch it without losing your outer layer as well.
Synthetic insulation is preferred to the warmer Down. That’s because no matter how good a Ski Jacket is, it can eventually wet out. If Down insulation gets wet it loses a ton of its insulating power and will make you cold. So despite Down Insulation having superior insulating qualities, synthetics win out in the vast majority of Insulated outerwear.
Insulated Ski Jackets will often advertise how insulated they are with a weight measurement, say the Women’s Patagonia Insulated Powder Bowl Jacket used Thermogreen insulation and has 100g in the Body and 60g in the Arms. So you’d know the Arms are strategically less insulated than the body of this specific Jacket. But you don’t want to be comparing different insulating materials by the weight of each. 100g of Down will provide different warmth than 100g of Primaloft which will be different from 100g of Thermogreen.
Ski Jacket Features
This is where Ski Jackets differentiate themselves from Rain Jackets, City Jackets etc. These generally won’t make or break your trip but will add to the convenience of getting around.
Hood
If you ski in conditions that aren’t sunny, all Ski Jackets you will want to be buying have a hood. The fit of the hood, however, differs between brands. If you wear a helmet, having a hood that fits over the helmet is super important. Most good ski jackets have helmet-compatible hoods but it is always worth checking.
Powder Skirt
The Powder Skirt is the main feature that differentiates Ski Jackets from Climbing Jackets. Having an elastic waistband to keep snow from getting up your jacket helps you stay warm and dry when skiing bottomless Japan powder. Good Powder Skirts are low profile and clip away when not in use.
Ski Pass Pocket
With the invention of RFID Chips, Ski Jacket design has started adding specific pockets for Ski Passes utilising RFID technology. Often situated on the left arm they allow a user to keep the pass well away from any interference caused by a Phone or Wallet situated on their body. If you ski at a resort using RFID Technology, these pockets are awesome.
Elastic Wrist Gaiters
Most Ski Jackets come with some variation of Elastic Wrist Gaiter. Designed to go on the inside of your glove to stop the dreaded gap between glove and jacket. There are rifts between people who use different styles. Some people like thumb holes, some people hate thumb holes, some people hate the gaiters altogether. Hence Ski Jackets come with all sorts of different varieties. In our experience, thumb holes are especially useful for those who don’t have base layers or mid layers that have thumb holes.
Ski Jacket Fit Guide
There are a couple of different mentalities when it comes to sizing. The vast majority go for a loose fit with a slightly longer cut. This leaves flexibility with layering underneath and a larger overlap between Jacket and Pants to help keep snow out.
Ladies may like a slimmer or more flattering fit, but this may limit mobility and the amount of layering you can fit underneath. Women’s Ski Jackets also have a tendency to be slightly shorter cut, be it trying to accommodate for body shape or higher waisted ski pants. There are definitely Women’s options out there that have a longer cut or at least a drop-tail for extra length at the back.
At no point should you feel constrained by a ski jacket when trying it on, even when moving your arms forward or above your head. That is a definite sign that a jacket is too tight and won’t allow for extra layers. Many brands have started creating face materials with an element of stretch to allow for jackets to fit a little more streamlined without restricting mobility.
Checking Size
Length should be roughly around the middle of your bottom, definitely not higher than your waist, and unless you spend a ton of time in the park you probably don’t want it to sit at mid thigh.
Sleeve length should be between your wrist and the middle of your hand a la the wrist gaiter photo above. This ensures you have adequate overlap between your gloves and jacket. If you wear gauntlet style gloves then there is a little flexibility to be on the short side as the glove cuff covers most of your wrist.
Overall fit should be gauged by how loose the jacket hangs around your torso. Too tight and it will restrict movement and limit layering. Too loose and you’ll know by how boxy and unflattering it looks.
It is pretty hard to gauge whether a Jacket will fit based on Online fit guides, as some definitely have a longer torso or short sleeves etc. Most brands fit fairly similarly from size to size. That is to say, if you are a Medium in one, chances are you’ll be a Medium in the next.
Outerwear Care
As much as we may want you to buy a new jacket or two every year, there is something to be said about reviving old jackets and making them last as long as possible. Better for your wallet and your environmental conscious.
Waterproofing
There is a common myth that washing your jacket kills the waterproofing. To a certain extent, this is true but only because of the harsh laundry chemicals being used. Avoid Fabric Softener and Bleach at all costs. However, occasionally washing with a tech wash actually improves the waterproofing and longevity of a jacket by cleaning dirt and oil out of the membrane.
The first thing that will make your Jacket feel old and not waterproof is the DWR wearing off and the Jacket wetting out. After washing, tumble drying your jacket on low heat can aid in reviving the waterproofing by re-activating the DWR (double check the manufacturer’s recommendation before doing this). If you test the jacket after doing this and it doesn’t bead off, chances are it's time to add a spray on or wash in DWR treatment. Nikwax are our go-to for these treatments.
Rips and Tears
It feels like the end of the world when you snag a tree and put a gaping hole in your brand new $600 Gore-Tex shell. Luckily there are products out there that work better than Duct Tape when it comes to patching your Ski Jacket. Don’t bother getting the sewing kit out, taping is the way to go!
Tenacious Tape is your friend in these situations. Stickier and more pliable than Duct Tape and doesn’t leave a residue if you need to pull it off. Trim your patch to make a round or oval shape with no sharp corners that will inevitably peel and chuck it on there. Patch jobs, when done properly, last for years and add to the character of the Jacket. Most of the time there is a great skiing story behind every one.
Broken Zippers
These are probably the first sign a Jacket is nearing the end of its life. Patagonia specifically design their jackets in a way that replacing zippers is a possibility.